Two Days in Caithness - Part 1

Caithness is the bit of Scotland that lies just over the Pentland Firth which is the sheet of water that separates Orkney and Scotland. Normally we only see it through the car windows as we drive south for whatever reason, or hurtle north on our way home. But there are intriguing signs and pretty villages and lots of archaeology just off the main road and for ever and a day I've been saying 'really one day we must come and spend a couple of days in Caithness.'

I never learn.  I said something similar about Shetland quite a lot when we first moved here and eventually we went. Pre-blogging days. It was a disappointment. I don't think the disappointment was much to do with Shetland per se, probably more to do with what I was expecting, which obviously wasn't what we found when we got there. This would be easier to account for if I knew exactly what I'd been expecting. But I don't.. However in the interests of fairness and inter island support I will say about Shetland that

a) it is great for seeing puffins. Orkney has puffins but they do not perform like Shetland puffins do. Orkney puffins are shy and retiring and really don't want to be seen. Shetland puffins have taken to heart Macbeth's words about strutting and fretting their hour upon the stage, and boy do they strut. It's really good.

b) it has the Broch of Mousa. If there is a better example anywhere of a Broch, or a North Atlantic Roundhouse as they are sometimes known, lead me to it and let me climb the stairs. Mousa is worth the trip to Shetland on its own.

c) it has two great wool producers - 'nuff said.

But I digress....back to Caithness....

It so happens that I have been invited to do some teaching at the place where only a little while ago I was studying North Atlantic Literature. Remember this slim volume? And there was a meeting for tutors to sort out timetables and so on, which I could have joined in by Skype but given that son no 2 is home for the holidays and therefore able to look after the cats I said, oh let's go in person  and we can stay overnight and do some of all the things here are to do in Caithness.

Now this would have been easier if a) it hadn't been the Lairg lamb sale the day before the meeting and b) if Caithness attractions had sensible opening hours - Caithness Brough Centre, Wick Heritage Centre, and half a dozen other centres, I'm looking at all of you. Given that we were on the early ferry to make the most of our time it was sad that many places didn't open until 10.30, and in one particularly benighted case 11.00. The lamb sale just made it difficult to find somewhere to stay; Lairg isn't overly blessed with hostelries and many of them are apparently booked up for this occasion from one year to the next by lamb sellers and buyers. The local Visit Scotland office managed to acquire for us, some three weeks before the day, what appeared to be the last available hotel room for the night within a 30 mile radius . And it was actually right in the middle of town.

 

So given that little was open we had to do open air stuff, but that wasn't a problem. First stop was the old part of Wick

 

 

Obviously that's the harbour. There was an intriguing set of Salt Gates, of which this was one example

 

They were amazing.

Next up was

the sign says 'To The Hill o' Many Stanes', which basically does what it says on the tin

many rows of these small stones placed in long lines down the hillside making a fan shape and dating back, as far as they can tell, to the bronze age. I made myself unpopular with the OH by saying I thought it was more atmospheric and interesting than the Ring of Brodgar here in Orkney.....but you know, I wasn't trying to wind him up, I just did.

 

After THOMS it was off to the Ladhay Croft Museum. I didn't take any pictures inside but the outside looks like this -

 

 

If you're passing, I would say that's the right thing to do and keep on going, unless you want a cup of tea and a bun. There is a tea room next door and it's excellent. The Museum  - not so much.

Tomorrow, a desolate Clearance Village, a Broch that's good although not as good as Mousa, a really nice lunch and some tarted up Cairns. I bet you can't wait.